SO Rhode Island Magazine
'So Delicious Tastemaker Article - by Julie Tremaine'
Printed in the May 2010 Edition of SO Rhode Island
'Taste Above All Else'
by Caroline Larson - the 'Wine Goddess' of Colonial Wine & Spirits
Wine expert Caroline Larson on why life's too short to sip bad grapes -
You and your husband own Colonial Wine and Spirits. What's your selection like? How do you curate your selection? What kind of research do you do before choosing something for the store?
I search for wines rather than waiting to be introduced to them locally. Wine research is 24/7. I get continuous feedback from our sons (who work in the wine industry in California). I make personal visits to numerous vineyards around the world sampling over 1,000 wines per year and I constantly read industry books, magazines, newsletters and blogs.
Taste takes priority over all else. First, I evaluate quality (intensity, balance, length of finish, varietal character). Second, I evaluate the quality/price ratio to ensure values - just because you pay more does not mean you get a better wine. Many wines we've selected later receive high ratings (90 points plus) - thus, our reputation for being a leading-edge establishment.
About 10 years ago we built a climate-controlled room in which we store up to 5,000 bottles. Of our selection of over 800 wines, nearly 100 wines are stored only under climate control - you don't see them on the shelf. You want to ask to be helped by our seasoned, expert staff. Our staff knows how to pair food and wine and have tasted most every wine in the store.
What's your wine of choice for the pleasantly warm May weather?
After drinking red wine for most of the winter, I am eager to experience a wider variety of food and wines - especially seafood. Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling are my favorites for spring and summer. Lately I've fallen in love with white from Alsace (France). Lighter reds like Grenache or Syrah based blends become more appealing as the weather warms. Pinot Noirs are great with salmon - especially those from Burgundy, Russian River and Central Coat origins.
What's the Bacchus Wine Club?
Europeans have always treated wine as a food, not a beverage. I couldn't agree more. The Bacchus Wine Club focuses on the food and wine pairing aspect with other like-minded people. We travel to vineyards, restaurants, and savor the best wines. Industry friends are usually invited, so it's a great opportunity to learn and ask questions. Smaller events are often restricted to those club members. There are special discounts and offerings that go out to those members.
You do a lot of wine events in your store. What's coming up in May?
We will be featuring an importer of south African wines new to Rhode Island to do a class/tasting. Normally a class/tasting is done once monthly be Peter Savickas (holder of a WSET advance certificate in wine). Comparing grape varietals across regions is his forte' and we'll feature Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris for May. Friday Wine Tastings are hosted by Lisa Magnuson, wine educator and Providence Examiner blog writer.
Let's talk about locally produced wines. What do you think grows best in southern New England? What's your favorite local bottle?
My favorite local wine is the Sakonnet Gewurztraminer - the best quality wine in our region. Other very nice local wines include Newport Riesling and Sakonnet unoaked Chardonnay. For those who have a sweet tooth, there's Greenvale 'Skipping Stone', Newport 'Great White' or Sakonnet 'Eye of the Storm'. Whites grow well here; however, most red grapes struggle because our climate is too cold.
What are your picks for a white and a red under $10? $15?
Presently, I favor value-priced wines from South America, Portugal, Italy and Spain - and we have some amazing California wines. Wines under $10: Oroya ($9.99 white blend; Spain); Charamba ($6.99 red blend; Portugal) and Almahue Carmenere ($9.99 red; Chile) are all complex and powerful.
Under $15: Fess Parker 'Frontier' ($10.99 red blend; California) Las Perdices
($14.99 Pinot Gris and Malbec; Argentina), in Situ Syrah ($14.99; Chile) and Willm Pinot Blanc ($13.99; Alsace) are all among our best values.
We now have over 500 wines under $20; we've repositioned our offerings and feature displays filled with "Values Under $16" (similar to Wine Spectator value selections) a "20-For" section ($10, $15, $20 and $25) and "Staff Favorites".
Life is too short to drink bad wine!
Caroline and her husband own Colonial Wine & Spirits, 7745 Post Road, North Kingstown. 294 4623